Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers, New Zealand

On route to the Glaciers we spent one night at Westport and another at Greymouth. Both of which were small villages that have a history in gold / coal mining. These were handy ‘stop offs’ but not a lot to write home about. We did manage to amuse ourselves with just how seriously some people take camping! The guy on the pitch next to us lived there full time and was most certainly a sandwich short of a picnic and then there are other extremes like this…

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On our drive to Franz Josef we stopped at the Pancake Rocks. Now whilst I was hoping for some sort of sweet treat, it was in fact a ‘Mother Nature’ special of huge limestone rocks that have formed over millions of years. What is usual about them is the stacks they have formed which look like neat piles of pancakes (it’s actually due to a weathering process called stylobedding).

At the snow capped Franz Josef Glacier we manage to get a good look via one of the set walking tracks. It was here we also had a mooch around Lake Matheson where the water was so still it reflected the mountain scenery perfectly!

Next stop was the Fox Glacier which is slightly smaller and quieter. Here we were lucky that the weather gods allowed us to go on a Heli Hike tour (www.fox guides.co.nz) in the morning as the afternoon session was cancelled due to cloud coverage. The trip was a 4 hour ice-hike which included a return helicopter ride where we were able to explore a remote and pristine part of the glacier on foot. We even had a private guided tour as a lady in our original group was not able to continue. The ice on the Fox Glacier is amazing, underneath the surface it is brilliantly blue which is something to do with it being the only colour that makes it through the softer white surface. The pictures don’t do it justice but because the ice is constantly moving it creates spectacular ice caves, arches and tunnels! Check out our 2 videos from the Heli Hike, you may need to copy and paste the links into your browser https://youtu.be/V3KzEGJkCbc and https://youtu.be/Z8vvMHNLOlU .

Wanaka is our next stop which is a 3.5 hours down the west coast.

 

Wild Kaikoura, New Zealand

From Nelson we drove to Blenheim and stayed the night before moving onto Kaikoura. Not much to report on the agricultural town that is Blenheim in all honesty, apart from the black sandy beach.

Kaikoura on the other hand is known for being a wildlife magnet with whales, dolphins, fur seals and apparently penguins too! As a result we booked with one of the big operators onto a 6.45am trip with Whale Watch Kaikoura. It was a miserable morning with lots of rain but the trip went ahead regardless. They kept telling us over and over again about sea sickness and whilst we thought it might be a bit choppy, it was in fact pretty horrific. Even those who didn’t know they suffered from it were unwell! Despite all of this we did after a few hours on the water get to see a Sperm Whale surface. They are humungous measuring on average twelve meters (the length of the boat) and weighing roughly 15,000kg! They spend 45 minutes upwards under water and only surface to replenish their oxygen supplies, so I guess we were pretty lucky to spot one!

We also stopped at a seal colony and took a snap or two! Overall we agreed how amazing it is to see these things in real life and not on an Attenborough documentary!

Our final stop in Kaikoura was a beautiful lavender farm! The whole place smelt delicious but it was a little too close to home for Dean who hated the bees buzzing round us!

 

Nelson, New Zealand

We arrived on the ferry in the South Island at Picton but drove the couple of hours to Nelson straight away as believe or not we do have a rough route planned for this part of our journey! In this region there are so many vineyards we thought it would be rude not to stop in at least one. Hunters Vineyard was where we had a little taster of the goods and a delicious platter for two. We felt very sophisticated until Dean’s strawberry milkshake came out!

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As well as vineyards the region is also known for its production of craft beer, so off we went in search of a brewery or two! One of these was based in Founders Heritage Park, which was actually a pretty walk that ended up with Dean having a tasting session in their cafe!

On our second day here one of the locals told us to visit Abel Tasman National Park. The drive alone was breathtaking as one minute we were near the top of a mountain surrounded by clouds and the next we were at the bottom with the sheep winding round bends in the sunshine! The coastal walking track is what people go for as it has a combination of coastal forest and golden sand. We didn’t fancy the 5 day trek but we did do the shorter hour long walk.

Next stop is Blenheim on route to Kaikoura where we are hoping to spot a whale!

Windy Wellington, New Zealand

After Lake Taupo we wanted to stop at Tongariro National Park which is in the centre of NZ’s North Island. The park is not only pretty big but has three active volcanoes! If we’re honest we didn’t fancy a long hike so we drove around for a bit and moved on. In fact the most spectacular part for us (beside the snow capped mountain) was being held up by a heard of sheep moving fields! Check out our video, you may need to copy and paste link into your browser https://youtu.be/6dgXtAxsbTA

Windy Welly as the locals call it lived up to its name (so much so the camper van was swaying from side to side!) It’s a small city but is NZ’s capital and the gateway to the South Island. Wellington has a built up centre but is surrounded by green bushy hillsides. We had a little look round the shops (if we leave it too long I start to get withdrawal symptoms) before taking a ride on the cable car which took us up the hill from Lambton Quay to Kelburn (pretty views but not much to it).

It was good to visit the capital city but I’m not sure if we missed something big here. Next stop is the 3 hour ferry ride to the South Island where we are hoping it will by a little warmer.

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Rumbling Rotorua & Lake Taupo, New Zealand

Rotorua is a smelly town due to its sulphur-rich land which means it has lots of natural thermal springs and exploding mud pools. Whilst pretty cool it didn’t take us long to zoom round the park in the rain where these natural wonders have popped up!

As a result we moved onto Lake Taupo where we admired the views over lunch in true camper style!

Around Lake Taupo we stopped at a number of places including Huka Falls (perks of driving is that we can do exactly this). This is where NZ’s longest river, the Waikato is slammed into a narrow opening creating these dramatic falls.

It was here that we spotted people riding the Aratiatia rapids at the bottom of the falls, so you guessed it – we signed up straight away for a trip the following morning! Check out our video you may need to copy and paste this into your browser https://youtu.be/MdLruOWe0R0

Our trusted NZ Lonely Planet book had recommended a thermal spa nearby. The Wairakei Terraces had four hot pools nestled in amongst the trees with mineral rich water coming from the Wairakei geothermal steamfield. The hottest of the four pools was 40 degrees and even I, who loves a hot bath/shower could not stay in it for long!

Last but not least in this area was a quick visit to a glass blowing workshop called Lava Glass. It was quite small but we did get to see the production of some of the bits on sale in the shop (in our case it was wine glasses).

Auckland & Waiheke Island, New Zealand

We only got ourselves a camper van! A bit of trial and error all round including loading the little fridge with our food shop to turn the corner and have it all tumble back out again (who knew you not only had to shut the fridge but lock it!)

 

The centre of Auckland was busy and everything you’d expect from a town centre. Although it’s not the capital city a third of New Zealand’s population live here (4.5m in total live in NZ). We spent a day pottering around Mission Bay, a lovely beach town, Ponsonby, Parnell and New Market all of which are quite low key suburbs but pretty and village like.

We spent another day on the beautifully picturesque Waiheke Island, where we did a Fullers ‘Taste of Tour’. The ferry ride was about 35 minutes from the main port in Auckland and once on the coach the other side we visited three vineyards (Stonyridge, Wild on Waiheke and Mudbrick which was my favourite) and an olive grove (Rangihoua Estate). We tasted wine as well as craft beer and olive oil all grown / made on the island. Apparently the micro-climate makes it perfect conditions for growing grapes and olives and whilst it started a little grey for us it was soon warm with blue skies. Check out our video which was bizarrely next to the olive grove which was to deans liking. You may need to copy and paste the link into your browser https://youtu.be/JO86pEVi7h8

Our plan is to stay in the North Island and visit a few more key places before booking our ferry crossing to the South Island.

Cape Tribulation & Port Douglas, Australia

We met the China family as planned at Cairns airport where we picked up our eight seater beast of a hire car. Despite there only being five of us it turns out little Joya has more stuff than most would believe possible!

We drove up the coast to Cape Tribulation first as this was the furthest point on our journey in Australia. Here it was not only very hot but also extremely humid.

The China family were very organised and must take credit for all the planning. They had booked the most delightful villa in the heart of the Daintree Forest called Jarramali (www.jarramali.com.au). The views were stunning and well worth the jungle bugs that we were inundated with on our first night (we left the windows open a little too long!) By the second night we had learnt from our mistake and instead endured the heat of a sauna inside the cabin as we were too paranoid to open the windows!

The boys had there fill of being BBQ kings where they cooked everything from Kangaroo to breakie overlooking the beautiful forest. In between being mesmerised by the views we squeezed in a boat trip along Cooper Creek looking for Crocodiles. The good news was that we spotted not one but three (one adult and two small babies). The big Croc was resting on the bank, but when he heard Joya crying he soon had his mouth wide open!

Port Douglas was our second stop. It is a small seaside town with some boutique shops, restaurants and the sweetest little white church that you ever did see (St Mary’s).

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Whilst the boys got up at the crack of dawn one day to go on a fishing trip us girls had a relaxing potter! The fishing trip was a clear success, with China catching a shark!

We also visited Mossman Gorge, which is part of the Daintree National Park. Carved by the Mossman River the gorge is a fresh water valley where the very cold clear water washes over ancient boulders. Once brave enough to venture in it was quite pleasant (Joya did not agree, after dipping one toe in she refused to go near it!) Despite the relatively strong currents the boys managed to make their way to the top in order to tumble down the natural rapids.

Our time with the China family was over far too quickly and before we knew it we were back were we started at Cairns airport ready to move onto New Zealand. Camper van adventures here we come!

Stylish Cairns, Australia

Undoubtably Cairns is very touristy but that meant lots of choice for us in the form of restaurants (ice cream parlours) and things to do which we loved! Overall we found it very modern but quite relaxed with its laid back ambiance and tropical climate.

We stayed at the Shangri-La Hotel which was a lovely treat and based right in the centre of town on the Marina. From here we got picked up very early one day (4am) to head out on a Hot Air Balloon ride over the Atherton Tablelands. This was truly brilliant and something I have wanted to do for a long time. There were 20 people in the basket in total, including Pepe our Spanish pilot. The landing was a little bumpy and the basket ended up on its side in the middle of a cattle field but it was all part of the fun! Once the enormous balloon (which could hold 450k basket balls) had deflated we helped pack it away which was hilarious but actually quite difficult. (Check out our little video, you might have to copy and paste this into your browser https://youtu.be/WQwCKROJk5g )

We also went on a Crocodile Jet Ski tour which started in the Marina. The tour lasted an hour and whilst we got quite close to the mangroves we didn’t manage to see any Crocs. This wasn’t a problem for Dean who was more interested in how fast he could go!

Now we are off to meet the China family at the airport, where Dean intends to hold up his handmade sign to welcome them!

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Gentle Mission Beach, Australia

Mission Beach consists of four small villages (Bingil Bay, North Mission, South Mission and Wongaling Beach) which are hidden amongst the rainforest that extends along the sea front. Whilst beautifully peaceful it was a little quiet for our liking. We only really had one full day here which was New Years Eve and reflecting on it now it was very calm and relaxing for a NYE! We had a delicious brekkie in a village cafe, a long stroll along the beach, a dip in the ‘safe’ netted area of the sea to avoid stingers and dinner at a wonderful family run Italian finished off with bubbles in bed from the local bottle shop!

We move up to Cairns now which is our last stop on our Greyhound coach journey up the East Coast. We are a bit overly excited about the next stop as we are looking forward to the busyness of a city (sad but true!)

Tubby* Townsville & Magical Magnetic Island, Austraila

We stopped at 150 year old Townsville for 3 nights and stayed in the CBD (Central Business District) at the Holiday Inn. It was easy to see the sights of this town on foot as there was not a huge amount to see! We strolled along the seafront (The Strand), walked around the city centre and popped into another chocolate bar (how could you not). Overall Townsville was pleasant enough but to be honest we renamed it ‘Deadsville’ which we put down to the time of year we visited (between Xmas and New Year) as most offices / shops were closed and who only knows where most of the people disappeared to!

The upside of Townsville was that we took the ferry over to Magnetic Island or ‘Maggie’ Island as the locals call it for a day trip. We hired a little topless car which was a lot of fun to drive (it felt like a go-cart!) Magnetic Island is only 32 sq miles so a day was more than enough to potter round (to think I was worried about running out of petrol!) Half of the island is a National Park so we were able to park up and follow some of the walking trails where we got to see a couple of wild Koala’s, huge Kites (birds of prey) and lots of colourful Parrots. We also saw some wild dolphins whilst crossing to the island on the passenger ferry!

Next stop is Mission Beach.

*Front page news was that Townsville is the fattest city in Austraila!